Gérard Boulay - Sancerre - Chavignol
Sancerre is widely known for its ubiquitous presence at bistros in Paris and northern France. The name is easy to remember and the grape, Sauvignon Blanc, is widely known. Although there are plenty of mass produced bottles, the finest examples like those from Boulay truly show the depth and nuance of this wine.
A winemaker once told me it was easy to make wine, crush grapes and they will ferment. He added, it was harder to make good wine and very difficult to make good wine year after year. Making good wine demands care and attention as well as experience. The Boulay family has been refining their craft since they started growing grapes in Chavignol in 1380. That is a lot of experience.
They now own 9 hectares with vineyards in some of the top “crus” of the region - Monts Damnes, La Grande Cote and Clos de Beaujeu. They have farmed organically since 1990. Grapes are hand harvest grapes and no yeast or SO2 is added during vinification. This care and attention reflects their belief that “nature makes the wine.” From this view point, Boulay says he makes wine by “surveillance,” meaning low intervention and care when needed.
The nose offers a broad bouquet of aromas that include ‘come hither’ sweet floral notes of pear and grapefruit blossoms. The palate has a laser like grape fruit note racing down the center of the palate that leaves a linger citrus note with a surprising note of cherry. As the wine warms and breathes (ages) it gains weight in the mid-palate and the red cherry note amplifies like a jazz bass line coming forward. While a natural wine it is clean and precise in the glass. Truly enjoyable now, it will reward time open, an hour or two, and can age in the cellar for 15 to 20 years (truly!! Just hide one bottle from yourself to see.)
If you like Sancerre, this is a benchmark standing just off stage. Boulay’s neighbors, Vatan and Coutat, sell their wines for a multiple of this bottle, so you can look at it like a built in “BOGO.” $38/bottle
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